Summer in the Sierra Nevada is pure magic—alpine lakes that sparkle in the sun, towering granite peaks , and trails that make you forget about everything else. This August, we finally carved out time for a 4-night backpacking trip on the John Muir Trail (JMT), starting from Florence Lake and heading up to the legendary Evolution Valley.
We’d heard for years that Evolution is one of the most beautiful spots in the entire Sierra, and wow—it absolutely lived up to the hype.
Here’s a look at how our trip went: the good, the tough, the thunderstorms, and all the alpine wonder in between.
Florence Lake to Evolution Valley on the JMT
Why Start at Florence Lake?
We’d been dreaming of seeing Evolution Valley, but here’s the thing: the usual route (North Lake to South Lake in Bishop) is HARD. It’s about 55 miles, takes at least 5 days, and includes three mountain passes. Gorgeous? Definitely. Doable for us? Not really. After struggling our way through the Sabrina Basin Trail earlier this summer, we knew we needed a shorter option.
That’s where Florence Lake comes in. It’s a bit of a mission to get there—way out past Fresno, down Kaiser Pass Road (more on that drive later)—but it’s kind of the sweet spot. You skip the hardest passes and still get straight into the good stuff: Evolution Valley, Goddard Canyon, and countless alpine meadows.
Funny enough, we actually first heard about this trail from an old man we met on a Bishop hike years ago. He told us, “If you want Evolution, try Florence Lake.” It stuck with us, and this year we finally went for it.
The trail is more popular than I expected (makes sense since it’s smack on the JMT and close to Muir Trail Ranch, one of the big resupply points), but honestly? Even with the crowds, the scenery was worth every step.
The Drive & The Florence Lake Ferry JMT (2 miles)
We left Anaheim at 6 a.m. with coffee in hand and a playlist queued up, ready for the 7-hour haul to Florence Lake. The first part of the drive is easy enough, but the last stretch along Kaiser Pass Road? Yikes. It’s a winding, one-lane mountain road where rocks jut out into the pavement and trucks barrel past By the time we made it into the parking lot, I was already ready for a break.
Enter the Florence Lake ferry—your golden ticket across the reservoir that saves you an extra 4.5 miles of hiking along the exposed shoreline. At $40 round trip, it felt worth every penny. We hopped on the 3:30 p.m. crossing and rolled across the water in the little motorboat.
The plan was to camp at a site right on the other side, but when we got there… no campsite. Even the ferry driver and other hikers were like, “Never heard of it.” With thunderclouds looming overhead, we shouldered our packs, and started walking. We made it about two miles in the rain before the sky turned dark and called it a night. Nothing like setting up camp after a storm to make you feel like you’re really out there.
Day 1 on the John Muir Trail (6.6 Miles)
The next morning we were up early, determined to beat the afternoon thunderstorms. By 7 a.m. we were on the trail, and by lunchtime we’d made it about 6.5 miles—just before the junction where Evolution Valley meets Goddard Canyon.
Good thing too, because at 2 p.m. sharp the skies opened up. Thunder, lightning, pouring rain—the works. For someone who grew up in Southern California where “rain” usually means a light sprinkle, this storm was wild. It felt like the thunder was right on top of us.
The day wasn’t all wet though. We walked through peaceful meadows where the morning light filtered through the trees, and we got to pass through Muir Trail Ranch. That place is huge—we spent over half an hour just walking through their property. At one point a herd of horses thundered down the trail past us, followed by a ranch hand on horseback with two dogs racing behind. Surreal doesn’t even begin to cover it.
By the time we reached the newly rebuilt South Fork San Joaquin River Bridge, I was buzzing. The bridge had washed out in the brutal winter of 2022–23, and this was the first summer it was open again. Kind of cool to think we were walking one of the newest links in the JMT/PCT chain.
That night, the rain kept coming in bursts, but tucked in our tent under a sequoia tree with the sound of the river rushing nearby, it actually felt kind of cozy. Tomorrow was when the real beauty would kick in: Evolution Valley.
Day 2: The Big Hike to Evolution Lake (18.8 Miles RT)
Okay, confession time: we definitely should have moved camp. In my head, I thought the hike from our site up to Evolution Lake was going to be maybe 16 miles round trip. Long, sure, but doable. Turns out it was closer to 19 miles—and doing it as a day hike with no overnight gear was… not our smartest move.
But after two nights of thunderstorms, the idea of packing up a soggy tent and hauling a heavy pack up switchbacks was even less appealing. So we decided: let’s just go for it. Spoiler alert: we left camp at 7 a.m. and didn’t stagger back until 8:15 p.m.—the last ten minutes by the glow of our phone flashlights. Would I recommend it? Absolutely not. Am I glad we did it? Honestly… yeah.
Into Evolution Valley
The hike up through Evolution Valley is gorgeous. Early on, we hit a wide stream crossing that slowed us way down. The water was running high, so we had to cross barefoot—painful, but better than spending the rest of the trip in soggy boots. Once across, the trail wound along the edge of Evolution Meadow, with an alternate path that cuts through the meadow itself. It’s not encouraged (foot traffic damages the meadow ecosystem), but on the way back we ended up taking it to save time. Sometimes racing the sun wins out over best practices.
And wow—McClure Meadow. Even though we had to hustle through both times, it stopped me in my tracks. It’s the kind of meadow that looks like it belongs on a postcard: a winding creek, peaks framing the horizon, sunlight spilling across the grass. We saw a few fly fishermen casting in the creek and even passed the backcountry ranger station.
At one point we passed a caravan of packhorses hauling supplies along the JMT, trailed by two cowboys and cowgirls. Honestly, seeing that in such a wild setting was one of the coolest moments of the entire trip. We usually ran into the pack train once a day
Climbing to Evolution Lake
From McClure, the trail climbs steadily toward Evolution Lake, with switchbacks that seem to go on forever. It took us about seven hours to reach the top, but when we finally came around the last bend, the view was worth every blister.
Evolution Lake is massive—one of the biggest alpine lakes I’ve ever seen—and absolutely stunning. The granite shoreline, the blue-green water, the way the light hit the peaks above… it felt like stepping into another world. We only had about 30 minutes to walk around and soak it in before reality set in: we had 9 miles to hike back before dark.
The Descent
We left around 3 p.m. and basically flew down the mountain. The weather finally cooperated—blue skies after two days of storms—and the sunset painted the whole valley gold as we raced the fading light.
By the time we made it back to camp, I was wrecked. My feet were covered in blisters, every muscle in my body ached, and dinner ended up being a quick eat-in-the-dark affair by the creek. But then the stars came out.
And oh my gosh—the night sky was unreal. With zero light pollution, the Milky Way stretched clear across the valley, bright enough to make you stop mid-step and stare. I stayed up taking photos and just letting it sink in: how small we really are, how huge and beautiful this world is, and how lucky I was to be right there, in that moment.
✨ That wraps Day 2—definitely the hardest day, but also one of the most rewarding.
Day 3: Day hike in Goddard Canyon (10 Miles RT)
After the monster hike to Evolution Lake, I was more than happy to slow things down. The nice part about not moving our tent the day before was being able to leave camp set up and just head out with light packs. The plan: a day hike into Goddard Canyon.
The trail heads gently uphill from the junction, winding through patches of forest and open meadows. We crossed a few streams spilling down from the cliffs, and the South Fork San Joaquin River was never far away—sometimes way down in the canyon, sometimes right next to us. There were even a couple of small waterfalls along the way, which made the whole hike feel peaceful compared to the chaos of Day 2. Best part? We didn’t see a single other person. Since it’s not the main JMT route, it felt like we had the canyon to ourselves.
We went about 4–5 miles in before turning around. You could technically make backpack in and make a multi day loop that connects to Evolution Valley, but we kept it simple and saved our legs.
Smoke Rolls In
On the way back, things started to get a little weird. The sky turned hazy, the light went orange, and everything around us looked like it had a filter on it. If you’ve ever been hiking during fire season, you know that uneasy feeling.
We bumped into another hiker who told us there was a fire nearby. He said the smoke had been even worse the day before, and while there wasn’t immediate danger, it was still unnerving. By the time we made it back to camp, all of our gear was dusted with a thin layer of ash.
Dinner that night was quick, and the sunset was this wild, glowing orange—so different from the crystal-clear skies the night before. It was one of those moments that makes you realize how fast conditions can flip in the backcountry. We went to bed early, knowing we wanted to get moving toward Florence Lake first thing in the morning.
Day 4: Back to Florence Lake (8.8 Miles)
We set the alarm for 5:30 a.m. and started breaking down camp. Honestly, we’re still pretty slow at packing up—takes us about an hour and a half to get everything stuffed away. At least we were a little more organized this time, with overnight oats and coffee prepped the night before. Backpacking pro tip: nothing motivates you like caffeine waiting in your cup.
The smoke from the night before had thinned out, but you could still taste it in the air. Either way, we knew we wanted to move fast. Our plan was to make the 4 p.m. ferry across Florence Lake, but since we were feeling good, we decided to try for the 1 p.m. instead.
The hike out was beautiful in its own way, though the valley was still hazy. By late morning it also started to heat up, which made the last hour and a half a bit of a slog. We pushed hard and rolled into the ferry call booth around 12:30. For anyone planning this trip, it’s literally a little wooden shack about five minutes from the dock with a two-way radio inside. You call the shop to let them know you’re there, otherwise the ferry might not come over. Kind of quirky, but it works.
We shared the ride back with an older couple who had spent a few nights at Muir Trail Ranch. They raved about the food, the cabins, and even a hot spring on the property. Definitely something to put on the “maybe next time” list. They also told us more about the Garnet Fire, which had started the same day we entered the trail. It was sparked by lightning and had already grown to 12,000 acres while we were out—by the next week, it had doubled in size. No wonder the smoke was so heavy.
The Long Drive Home
Back on the other side of the lake, we grabbed some cold drinks from the little store (nothing tastes better after four days on trail) and started the long drive home. We stopped in Clovis for gas and ramen—because yes, after backpacking, ramen hits different—and then cruised back to Anaheim. Luckily we were going against traffic, so the seven-hour drive wasn’t too brutal. Lots of iced tea, lots of snacks, and plenty of time to replay the trip in my head.
Just like that, our Florence Lake to Evolution Valley adventure was a wrap. Four days, 50-ish miles, thunderstorms, blisters, smoky skies, and some of the most stunning scenery in the Sierra.
Takeaways & Tips from Hiking the JMT
One of the coolest parts of being on the JMT was seeing just how many different kinds of people were out there. We crossed paths with plenty of thru-hikers, but what surprised me most was the number of folks in their 50s, 60s, even 70s cruising along with fully loaded packs. Seriously—while we were nursing blisters and sore shoulders, they were just trucking along, smiling, and covering miles like it was nothing. It was a good reminder that age really is just a number, and it left me feeling hopeful that we’ve got a lot of years of adventure still ahead of us.
Another big lesson for us was around wildfire awareness. The smoke on this trip rattled us a bit, and it made us realize how quickly things can change out there. We’ve decided that before our next big backpacking trip, we’re investing in a Garmin satellite communicator. Having a way to check weather, get fire updates, and contact people back home will give us a lot more peace of mind. Relying on chatting with other hikers for news worked this time, but it’s not the most reliable system when safety is on the line.
If you’re planning this route, here are a few quick tips we learned the hard way:
- Permits – Required; book on recreation.gov. 60% are released 6 months ahead; 40% two weeks before.
- Food storage – Bear canisters required
- Ferry – Stops running after Labor Day weekend
- Overnight parking – Florence lake has free overnight parking
- Storms – Afternoon storms are common; check forecasts and bring rain gear.
- Leave No Trace – Camp at least 100 feet from water/trail, pack out all trash (including TP).
- Season – Best from June–October, but snow can linger earlier in the season.
- Start early every day. Thunderstorms in the Sierra are no joke, and you don’t want to be caught on exposed switchbacks when they roll in.
- Pack light but smart. A long day hike like Evolution Lake is much easier if you’re not weighed down.
- Don’t underestimate smoke and fire season. Check conditions before you go, and have a backup plan.
- Ferry logistics matter. Budget your timing around the Florence Lake ferry—call from the radio shack on your way out or you might be waiting a while.
- The Ferry stops running after Labor Day weekend, if you go later you will have to walk from the Florence Lake Trailhead
- Enjoy the meadows. McClure Meadow and Evolution Valley are some of the prettiest parts of the Sierra. Slow down and soak them in if you can.
Final Thoughts on Florence Lake to Evolution Valley
This trip was my first real taste of the JMT, and honestly, I’m hooked. I can already see myself coming back for another section next season. Compared to the Bishop hikes I’ve done, the lower elevation here made it a little easier to push for longer distances, which gave me a whole new sense of what I could do. The trail itself is stunning—meadows, lakes, valleys—and the best part is the people you meet along the way. Hikers from all over the world, each with their own stories, all crossing paths in the middle of the Sierra.
Every time I get out on a trip like this, it helps me reset, put life back into perspective, and remember why I love being outdoors so much. Four days unplugged in the wilderness felt like exactly the kind of escape I needed, and it left me already dreaming of what’s next.
If you’re planning a John Muir Trail section hike, this stretch from Florence Lake to Evolution Valley is 100% worth adding to your list. It’s challenging but doable, filled with stunning meadows, lakes, and valleys, and makes for one of the most memorable multi-day backpacking trips in California.
If you’re planning your own backpacking trip in California’s Sierra Nevada, I can’t recommend this section enough. For more adventures, check out:
- 3 Epic Nights Backpacking Sabrina Basin Trail – Lake Sabrina to Hungry Packer
- Bishop Pass from South Lake: 4 Day Backpacking Adventure
- Treasure Lakes Trail: A 4-Day Backpacking Adventure in Bishop California
P.S. Like the vibe of these photos?
I’ve turned some of my favorite travel shots into art prints over on my Etsy shop! Not every place I write about makes it into the shop, but if you’re into dreamy landscapes, vintage surfers, or just love a cute puffin, come take a look: Night Star Studio on Etsy
