Koyasan was one of the most mystical and serene places I’ve ever visited—without a doubt, one of the highlights of my Japan trip. This mountaintop Buddhist sanctuary, hidden in the remote forests of Wakayama Prefecture, offers a rare glimpse into Japan’s spiritual heart. It’s the perfect place to experience an overnight stay at a shukubo (temple lodging), where you can immerse yourself in monastic life, savor traditional shojin ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), and even take part in a morning meditation session led by monks.
With over 100 temples and monasteries, Koyasan is the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism, a sect founded in 819 by the revered monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi). This sacred site has drawn pilgrims for over a thousand years and remains one of Japan’s holiest destinations. Despite its growing popularity among travelers, Koyasan retains its peaceful, otherworldly charm—especially in the quiet of early morning or the eerie glow of lanterns at Okunoin Cemetery after dark.
This Koyasan Travel Guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from how to get there, where to stay, must-see temples, and essential travel tips. If you’re visiting Japan and looking for a unique cultural experience beyond the usual tourist hotspots, Koyasan is absolutely worth the trip!
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Koyasan Travel Guide
How to Get to Koyasan from Osaka or Kyoto
At first glance, reaching Koyasan may seem complicated, but it’s actually pretty easy once you get going. There’s only one main route, and station staff are happy to assist if you need help.
Step 1: Getting to Osaka (if coming from Kyoto)
If you’re starting in Kyoto, you’ll need to go to Osaka. The two cities are well-connected by train, and the best route depends on where you’re staying. Use Google Maps or other apps to check real-time schedules.
Step 2: Taking the Nankai Koya Line from Osaka
From Osaka’s Nankai Namba Station, take the Nankai Koya Line towards Gokurakubashi Station. There are two train options:
- Limited Express Koya Train – The fastest and most comfortable choice (requires a reserved ticket).
- Local or Express Trains – Slower but more budget-friendly (you may need to transfer at Hashimoto Station).
Important: The Nankai Koya Line is NOT covered by the JR Pass, so you’ll need to buy a separate ticket.
Step 3: Riding the Koyasan Cable Car
At Gokurakubashi Station, you’ll transfer to the Koyasan Cable Car, a short but scenic ride that takes you up the mountain.
Step 4: Taking the Bus or Taxi to Your Temple Lodging
Once you reach the top, taxis and buses are waiting to take you into town and to your shukubo.
Should You Get a Rail Pass?
Depending on your itinerary, you could consider the Koyasan-World Heritage Ticket or the Kansai Thru Pass . These passes cover transportation costs and offer discounts on attractions, but their restrictions can be confusing. I skipped the passes, but be sure to compare ticket prices to see what makes the most sense for you!
Exploring Okunoin Cemetery: The Soul of Koyasan
Koyasan is home to over 100 temples, and while you could spend days or even weeks exploring them, most visitors only have one or two days. For me, the main draw was Okunoin Cemetery, and I spent most of my time wandering its ancient, moss-covered paths.
What made it special was seeing it in different lighting and weather conditions—misty in the morning, eerie in the rain, glowing at night under lantern light. Every time I walked through was a new experience.
What Makes Okunoin So Sacred?
Okunoin (奥の院) is the final resting place of Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism and one of the most revered religious figures in Japan. Unlike a normal cemetery, Okunoin is believed to be a place of eternal meditation rather than death. According to legend, Kobo Daishi never truly passed away—he remains in deep meditation, waiting for the arrival of Miroku Nyorai (Maitreya), the Buddha of the Future, while offering spiritual guidance to those who seek it.
This makes Okunoin one of the most sacred sites in Japan and a major pilgrimage destination. Over the centuries, monks, feudal lords, and even corporations have placed 200,000+ tombstones here in hopes of being close to Kobo Daishi in the afterlife.
Walking Through Okunoin Cemetery
The Traditional Route: Ichinohashi Bridge
The main entrance to Okunoin begins at Ichinohashi Bridge (First Bridge). It’s customary to bow before crossing as a sign of respect for Kobo Daishi. From here, a two-kilometer path winds through the dense cedar forest, lined with ancient moss-covered tombstones, some over 1,000 years old.
The Shorter Route: Okunoin-mae Bus Stop
If you’re short on time, you can take a shortcut from the Okunoin-mae bus stop, cutting the walk in half. However, this route passes through a newer section of the cemetery with modern gravestones, which lacks the spirituality of the traditional path. I only took a small detour on this route before rejoining the main path—I wanted the full experience of walking through the old forest with its towering trees and flickering lanterns.
Key Landmarks Along the Path
- Mizumuke Jizo (Water-Covered Jizo)
Near the Gokusho Offering Hall, you’ll find a row of Jizo statues, dedicated to the souls of children, travelers, and the deceased. Visitors throw water over the statues while making a prayer for their departed loved ones. - Gobyobashi Bridge & The Inner Sanctuary
A small stream separates the inner sanctuary from the rest of Okunoin. Visitors should bow before crossing Gobyobashi Bridge, as the area beyond is considered the holiest part of the cemetery. Photography, food, and drinks are prohibited past this point.- Nearby, wooden markers in the stream serve as memorials to unborn children, adding to the spiritual weight of the site.
- The Miroku Stone Challenge
Just beyond the bridge, you’ll find a small caged stone known as the Miroku Stone. Legend has it that if you try to lift it with one hand, the weight you feel reflects your spiritual purity—the good-hearted will find it light, while others may struggle. - Torodo Hall (Hall of Lanterns) & Kobo Daishi’s Mausoleum
The final stop is Torodo Hall, Okunoin’s main worship hall, which holds over 10,000 eternally lit lanterns donated by devotees. Behind the hall is Kobo Daishi’s Mausoleum (Gobyo), where pilgrims chant sutras and offer prayers to the revered monk.- Note: Torodo Hall is undergoing renovations from late September 2024 for about a year, so access to the lanterns may be limited.
Jizo Statues in Koyasan: A Symbol of Protection & Compassion
As you wander through Koyasan, especially in Okunoin Cemetery, you’ll notice countless small stone statues dressed in red bibs and hats. These are Jizo Bosatsu, one of the most beloved deities in Japanese Buddhism. Jizo is known as the protector of children, travelers, and lost souls, offering comfort and guidance to those in need.
Why Are Jizo Statues Dressed in Red?
The bright red bibs and knitted hats might seem odd at first, but they hold deep meaning. In Japanese culture, red is believed to ward off evil spirits and provide protection. Parents often dress Jizo statues in these garments as a prayer for their children’s health or as an offering of gratitude. It’s a touching tradition that makes these statues even more special to see.
Jizo and the Mizuko Kuyo Ceremony
Jizo also plays an important role in the Mizuko Kuyo, a Buddhist ceremony held to honor and comfort the spirits of unborn or deceased children. Families visit Jizo statues, leaving small offerings or pouring water over them in prayer. It’s a quiet but powerful ritual, and you’ll see traces of it in the form of toys, coins, and tiny shoes left at Jizo’s feet.
Other Spots to Visit in Koyasan
While Okunoin Cemetery and temple stays are the highlights of a visit to Koyasan, there are plenty of other fascinating sites to explore. From ancient pagodas to hidden shrines, here are some of the best places to visit:
Garan Temple Complex & Buddhist Teaching Center
📍 Central Koyasan
The Garan Temple Complex, also known as Danjo Garan, is one of Koyasan’s most important religious sites. Established in the 9th century by Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, it remains a center for Buddhist teaching to this day. You might even spot young monks in saffron robes studying and walking through the grounds.
Key Highlights:
- Chūmon Gate: The impressive entrance gate, reconstructed in 2015 for Koyasan’s 1200th anniversary. Two of the guardian king statues inside date back to before an 1843 fire.
- Konpon Daitō Pagoda: A 50-meter tall vermillion pagoda symbolizing the cosmic Buddha at the center of a mandala. Inside, intricate paintings and statues represent Buddhist teachings in 3D form.
- Kondo Hall: The main worship hall, rebuilt multiple times over the centuries, where ceremonies are still held today.
Kiyotaka Inari Shrine
📍 Between Fudoin Temple and Karikayado
One of my favorite hidden spots in Koyasan, Kiyotaka Inari Shrine is a small yet atmospheric shrine tucked away in the forest. I passed it on my walk to Ichinohashi Bridge, and the tunnel of red torii gates shrouded in mist, with towering cedar trees in the background, was an unforgettable sight.
Why It’s Special:
- Deep Connection to Shingon Buddhism: It’s believed that Kukai enshrined Kiyotaka Inari Shrine from the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, showing a unique blend of Buddhist and Shinto traditions.
- Less Touristy: Unlike the famous torii gates in Kyoto, this shrine is much quieter, making it perfect for a peaceful moment of reflection.
Daimon Gate
📍 Western Entrance to Koyasan
Daimon Gate is the massive 25-meter-high red gate marking the traditional entrance to Koyasan from the west. If you’re hiking the Choishi Michi pilgrimage trail, this is where you officially enter the temple town.
Interesting Facts:
- The current gate was rebuilt in 1705 after previous versions were lost to fire.
- Two massive guardian statues stand at either side of the gate, protecting the entrance to this sacred land.
- Best time to visit: Sunset – the view from Daimon Gate over the surrounding mountains is stunning.
Kongo Sanmai-in Temple
📍 A short walk from the town center
Unlike most other temples in Koyasan, Kongo Sanmai-in has remained in its original form for centuries, avoiding destruction by fire. It’s one of the most atmospheric temples, surrounded by towering cedar trees.
What Makes It Special:
- Ancient pagoda & temple buildings designated as National Treasures.
- Former center for Buddhist teachings on both Zen and Esoteric Buddhism.
- Temple Stay Option: You can spend the night here, but be aware that the walls are paper-thin, and the facilities are quite basic.
Koyasan Digital Museum
📍 Near Okunoin Cemetery
A new museum opened in 2022, the Koyasan Digital Museum presents the 1200-year history of Koyasan in a modern, interactive way.
What to Expect:
- VR Theater: A fully immersive 250-inch screen showcasing the story of Koyasan and Shingon Buddhism. (Entry: ~1000 yen)
- Museum Café & Souvenir Shop: A good stop for lunch—I had their curry, which I’d definitely recommend!
- Great for history buffs: If you’re interested in the deeper stories behind Koyasan’s temples, this is worth a visit.
Koyasan Temple Stay: A Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience
One of the most unique aspects of visiting Koyasan is the opportunity to stay in a shukubo—a traditional Buddhist temple lodging. Out of the 117 temples in Koyasan, over 50 welcome guests, offering a glimpse into monastic life. The term shukubo directly translates to “sleeping with the monks,” though in reality, most temples have dedicated guest quarters, making the experience a comfortable blend of tradition and hospitality.
Staying overnight in a temple is like checking into a Japanese ryokan but with a spiritual twist. Some temples provide simple tatami-mat rooms with shared bathrooms and minimal amenities, while others feel almost like luxury ryokan, complete with private baths, air conditioning, and even small onsens. No matter where you stay, you’ll be treated to the serene atmosphere of temple life and the chance to participate in Buddhist rituals.
Morning Prayer & Temple Life
One of the highlights of a temple stay in Koyasan is the opportunity to attend the morning prayer ceremony, known as Otsutome. This takes place around 6 AM and, while optional, is highly recommended. The experience of sitting in the dimly lit temple, listening to the rhythmic chanting of monks, and feeling the deep spiritual energy is unforgettable.
After the ceremony, you’ll be served a traditional shojin ryori breakfast—a beautifully prepared vegetarian meal that follows Buddhist dietary principles. Meals are an essential part of the experience, often consisting of seasonal vegetables, tofu, miso soup, and delicately arranged pickles.
Check-out times are typically early, around 9 AM, so make sure to wake up in time to enjoy the full experience!
Where I Stayed: Koyasan Shukubo Hojoin
For my temple stay, I chose Koyasan Shukubo Hojoin, one of the more affordable temple lodgings that still offers an amazing experience. The highlight? The food! Dinner and breakfast were both beautifully arranged, and the temple’s cook—an incredible 80-year-old chef—prepared each meal with such care and precision that it felt like a work of art.
Temple stays in Koyasan are not cheap and tend to book up quickly, so if you plan on staying overnight, make sure to reserve well in advance. This was my splurge night on my Japan trip, but it was worth it!
Other Temples to Stay at in Koyasan
Here are some of the best-rated temple stays in Koyasan, catering to different preferences:
1. Eko-in Temple (恵光院) – Best for First-Time Visitors
⭐ Highly rated, English-friendly, and offers extra activities
- One of the most popular shukubo, known for welcoming English-speaking guests
- Offers meditation sessions, sutra copying, and night cemetery tours
- Rooms have traditional tatami flooring and a mix of shared and private bathrooms
- Beautiful garden views and a tranquil setting
- Great choice for first-timers looking for a well-rounded experience
- 💰 Price Range: ¥15,000–¥30,000 per night
- 📍 Location: Near Okunoin Cemetery
2. Fukuchi-in Temple (福智院) – Best for a Luxurious Experience
⭐ Temple stay with an amazing onsen (hot spring bath)!
- One of the more luxurious temple lodgings in Koyasan
- Features a beautiful garden and indoor + outdoor hot spring baths (onsen)
- Rooms range from basic tatami-style to upgraded ones with private bathrooms
- High-quality shojin ryori (vegetarian Buddhist cuisine)
- Ideal for those who want a more comfortable, ryokan-like experience while staying in a temple
- 💰 Price Range: ¥20,000–¥35,000 per night
- 📍 Location: Near Kongobu-ji Temple
4. Rengejo-in Temple (蓮華定院) – Best for a Quiet & Spiritual Stay
⭐ Less touristy, with a strong spiritual atmosphere
- A smaller, quieter temple that provides a more intimate experience
- Beautiful garden views and a peaceful environment
- Features sutra writing experiences and morning prayers
- Traditional tatami rooms, mostly with shared bathrooms
- Recommended for those who want a more meditative and spiritual stay
- 💰 Price Range: ¥14,000–¥25,000 per night
- 📍 Location: Close to Danjo Garan Temple Complex
Getting Around Koyasan
🚶♀️ Walking: The best way to explore Koyasan! The town is small and mostly flat, making it easy to get from temple to temple. Okunoin Cemetery is the only major site slightly outside the center (about a 10-15 minute walk).
🚌 Local Buses: There are a few buses, but they aren’t always frequent or on time—especially in the off-season. Plan ahead, especially when heading to the train station. I nearly missed my train due to a bus delay, so give yourself extra time!
🚕 Taxis: Available but expensive. Best used as a backup if you’re short on time.
Weather in Koyasan & What to Pack
One thing to keep in mind when visiting Koyasan is that it’s noticeably colder than Osaka, Kyoto, or other lower-altitude areas. Since Koyasan sits at around 800 meters (2,600 feet) above sea level, the mountain climate can be chilly even in spring and autumn, and winter gets cold with occasional snowfall.
If you’re visiting between late fall and early spring, I highly recommend layering up—a warm jacket, thermal base layers, and gloves can make a huge difference. Even in summer, mornings and evenings can be brisk, so bringing a light jacket or sweater is a good idea.
Also, if you’re staying at a shukubo, keep in mind that many temples are older buildings with little to no insulation. While rooms usually have heaters in winter, the hallways and shared spaces are cold, especially in the early morning when you head to the prayer ceremony. Slippers and warm socks are a lifesaver for walking around the temple!
So, no matter when you visit, come prepared for cooler temperatures—you’ll thank yourself later!
Final Thoughts on Koyasan & Okunoin
Koyasan is more than a travel destination—it’s an experience that stays with you long after you leave. Whether it’s the quiet reverence of the temple stay, the beauty of Okunoin Cemetery in the mist, or the spiritual presence of Kobo Daishi, there’s something deeply moving about this sacred mountain.
If you’re planning a trip to Japan and want to go beyond the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route, Koyasan is absolutely worth the detour. Just be sure to book your temple stay in advance, pack warm layers (it gets chilly!), and set aside time to experience Okunoin in different lights. It’s a place that truly comes alive the longer you spend in its forest.
Check out the rest of my travel blog for more Japan adventures and budget-friendly travel tips!
