The Balkans conjure up images of sun-drenched Croatian islands or Belgrade’s pulsating nightlife. But on a recent trip, I stumbled upon a hidden gem that left me breathless: Mostar Bosnia & Herzegovina.
I hadn’t even heard of Mostar until I was chatting with friends I met backpacking Europe. Multiple people recommended adding Mostar to my journey, and I’m so glad I did. It still has a bad reputation from the past conflicts, but I felt completely safe and ended up loving my time there.
This captivating city isn’t just about stunning scenery (although the emerald Neretva River is a vision!). Mostar boasts a unique blend of Eastern and Mediterranean influences, a captivating legacy from its rich history. Imagine wandering through ancient stone alleys adorned with vibrant flowerpots, then stepping into a bustling copper workshop – a sensory overload in the best way possible.
Mostar is a city steeped in history and culture, and there’s so much to learn about its past and present. From the ancient Stari Most bridge to the bustling Old Town, there’s something for everyone in this captivating city!
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Sightseeing Mostar Bosnia :
Mostar Stari Most Bridge
No trip to Mostar is complete without visiting Stari Most! This iconic bridge, dating back to the Ottoman era in the 16th century, is the emblem of the city. It spans the Neretva River, connecting Mostar’s diverse communities.
Stari Most was tragically destroyed during the Bosnian War in the 1990s but was faithfully rebuilt using original techniques and materials. Today, it stands tall, just as it did during the Ottoman Empire. It’s no wonder it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site!
For a unique and exciting experience, watch the professional divers take the plunge from the 20-meter high Stari Most bridge into the Neretva River. This daring tradition has been around for centuries and serves as a rite of passage for local boys. It’s quite a sight to see!
Fun fact: The divers are highly trained, and only the best are allowed to make the jump. It’s a dangerous sport, but it’s a source of pride for the local community.
For girls, the equivalent of diving is said to be walking through the old town’s cobblestoned streets in high heels. Trust me, it’s a lot harder than it sounds! The stones are slippery, and I even struggled to keep my balance in my trail runners. I can’t imagine doing it in heels!
Exploring Mostar Old Town
On the west bank is Mostar’s enchanting old town, with winding cobblestone lanes, colorful Ottoman-style houses, and stone mosques. This is the heart of Mostar.
Wandering through the cobbled lanes of Mostar’s Turkish quarter felt like stepping back in time. It’s like a crossroads of civilizations between East and West! This Old Town district, with roots dating back to the 15th century reign of Suleiman the Magnificent’s Ottoman Empire, captivates visitors strolling by bazaar-like shops, mosques, and delicious Ćevabdžinica restaurants perfect for trying sizzling Balkan ćevapi sausages.
I couldn’t resist ducking under the low-hanging flower boxes overflowing with crimson red geraniums as I weaved uphill past precious Ottoman mansions and the ornate Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque with its vibrant teal dome.
Just beyond lies my favorite hidden gem – the Tabhana quarter. Once home to over two dozen tanneries producing prized Morocco leather processed using the icy Neretva River below, today it exists as an urban explorer’s paradise with abandoned water mills, textile workshops, and more surprises around every corner!
Mostar Old Town is a melting pot of cultures, where Turkish coffee and hookah lounges blend seamlessly with Bosnian hospitality and Mediterranean charm. It’s a truly intoxicating experience!
Highlight of the Trip: Mostar Walking Tour
Taking a Mostar Walking Tour was one of the highlights of my trip. It was a great way to learn about the city’s history and culture from the perspective of a local who lived through the war. My tour was 3 hours long, and I learned so much! (Tour length varies on the season and group size)
The war damaged many historic sites here, but Mostar’s old town still retains its Ottoman characteristics and charm. I highly recommend taking the Shiva Walking Tour to get a deeper understanding of the effects of the Balkan wars that still exist today.
Exploring the Abandoned Sniper Tower in Mostar
Mostar was one of the most active battlefields during the Balkan war. If you’re into history and a little bit of urban exploration, you should definitely check out the abandoned sniper tower near the old town. Originally a bank, this tower was converted into a strategic sniper nest during the conflict. Today, it stands as a graffiti time capsule, preserving artistic echoes of the 1990s Balkan conflict. You can also get some pretty amazing panoramic views of Mostar from up there.
Getting inside the tower isn’t for the faint of heart. You have to jump over the walls surrounding it, and sometimes, there’s a pile of rocks to help you climb. It can be a little risky, so be careful! When I first went alone, I chickened out and turned back because I didn’t want to get trapped on the wrong side of the wall. But later that night, I gathered my courage and returned with my hostel mates for a midnight climb. They had to help me with the landing because I have no faith in my knees jumping that high up. At the ripe old age of 26, I already have joint problems!
But I had a good time and was really glad that they talked me into going! Check out this climbing video of the tower.
Top Things to Do in Mostar
In addition to the famous bridge and historic core, don’t miss these top attractions:
- Climb the minaret of Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque for sweeping views
- Browse the old Bazaar and shops full of copper wares, jewelry, and souvenirs
- Partake in a Turkish coffee tradition ceremony
- Watch divers plunge off Stari Most
- Explore the Tabhana, an ancient Ottoman tannery still operating since 1551
- Visit the moving Museum Of War And Genocide Victims
- Check out the Bišćevića Ćošak: “House of Poetry” dedicated to Bosnia’s poets
- Admire the lavish interior of the Ottoman-era Karađoz Bey Mosque
- Explore the abandoned sniper tower
- The Fortica skywalk overlooking Mostar – there is a seasonal zipline and swing
- Day trip to Blagaj, Pocitelj, Kravice waterfalls and the skywalk.
Day Trip From Mostar: For adventure beyond the city, go rafting or kayaking on the fast-flowing Neretva River surrounding Mostar.
Nearby in Blagaj, visit the stunning half-timbered Dervish Tekija house nestled at the base of a cliff beside a flowing spring. Hike up into the rocky hills overlooking town for amazing views back across Mostar. Then make a stop at the stunning Kravice waterfalls for a cool dip or boat ride up close to the falls.
I booked my day trip through the hostel I was staying at, and it was a great way to meet other travelers. It turned out that pretty much all the hostels/agencies in Mostar offer the same tour package, so I ended up seeing the same people at every spot along the route.
Nightlife, Restaurants and Hotels in Mostar:
After dark, the Old Bazaar comes alive with a vibrant nightlife scene. Cafes like Terasa transform into buzzing bars, and you’ll find young crowds sipping craft beers at local pubs or dancing the night away at nightclubs like Club Calamus.
Don’t miss out on the delicious local cuisine! Treat yourself to savory pita, grilled meats like ćevapi, and Turkish sweets like baklava. For an unforgettable dining experience, I recommend visiting Babilon, Emino Sarajevo, or Šadrvan.
Pro tip: Restaurants in the old town are more likely to accept card payments. This region is still quite cash-heavy, and ATM fees can be high (around 5-10 euros per withdrawal).
Where to stay in Mostar
Choosing the right hotel can make or break your trip to Mostar. Here are some recommendations for different budgets:
Luxury:
- Hotel Mepas: This luxurious hotel offers stunning views of the Neretva River, a spa, and elegant rooms. It’s perfect for those seeking a pampering experience.
Mid-Range:
- Pansion Bubamara Mostar: This charming pension offers comfortable rooms, a restaurant, and a garden. It’s a great option for travelers who want a peaceful atmosphere.
- Hotel Kriva Cuprija: This charming hotel is situated in the heart of Mostar’s Old Town. It offers cozy rooms, a restaurant, and a terrace overlooking the river.
Budget-Friendly:
- Hostel Miran Mostar: This hostel offers affordable accommodation in a central location. It’s a great option for backpackers and budget travelers. (This is where I stayed at!)
No matter your budget, Mostar has a hotel to suit your needs! For proximity to the old bridge and attractions, look for accommodations in the center or west end. Hostels in the area all generally offer similar “war and day tours” for affordable prices.
Here are two videos of my time in Mostar and the day tour I took with Miran.
Best Time to Visit Mostar
Mostar enjoys warm, sunny weather from May to September when days reach into the 70s and 80s Fahrenheit. July and August are peak season with crowds and higher prices.
Spring and fall offer moderate temperatures in the 60s and fewer tourists. Winters are chilly, with highs in the 40s. Rain or snow can occur November through early March.
How to Get to Mostar:
Mostar is super accessible, so don’t worry about getting there! There are a few different options depending on your budget and itinerary
Flying into Mostar: Mostar has its own international airport (OMO) with connections across Europe on budget airlines like WizzAir. This is a great option for a direct and potentially cost-effective arrival.
Bus Adventures: Mostar is a central hub for exploring the Balkans by bus. You can easily hop on a bus to popular destinations like Dubrovnik, Split, and Sarajevo for under $20! I took a bus from Mostar to Dubrovnik and had a blast.
- Day Trip from Dubrovnik: If you’re already in Croatia, many tour companies offer convenient guided day trips from Dubrovnik to Mostar. It’s about a 3-hour bus ride each way, but the scenic route is totally worth it
- Backpacker Route: For budget-conscious travelers, the Split-Mostar-Kotor-Dubrovnik route is a popular choice. You’ll likely meet other backpackers along the way, making it a fun and social experience.
Once you’re in Mostar, the compact old town is best explored on foot. This way, you can truly immerse yourself in the city’s charm, wander through narrow streets, discover hidden gems, and soak in the local atmosphere.
Important Note for Bus Travel in Bosnia: Always Print Your Ticket
I didn’t believe it at first, but someone told me to print my bus ticket before leaving my hostel. I’m so glad I did! Another girl only had a digital ticket on her phone, and she literally cried and begged until the bus driver let her go on.
Bus operators in Bosnia & Herzegovina are pretty strict about printed tickets. Electronic or mobile tickets won’t always cut it, so make sure to have a physical copy ready.
Where History Meets Adventure
Mostar is a city that leaves a lasting impression. From the iconic Stari Most bridge to the charming cobblestone streets of the Old Town, there’s something for everyone.
I’m so glad I decided to add Mostar to my itinerary. It’s a hidden gem in the Balkans that’s definitely worth exploring. If you’re planning a trip to the region, I highly recommend adding Mostar to your list. You won’t be disappointed!
